Mara River crossings peak August – September · limited northern camps remain
Tanzania · Choose Your Star
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30,893 square kilometres carved from the old Selous Game Reserve — and 45 minutes by air from Dar es Salaam.
In 2019 the northern section of the Selous Game Reserve was upgraded to national park status and renamed Nyerere National Park, after Tanzania's first president. Most people in the industry still say Selous, and both names refer to the same country.
What makes it unlike anywhere else in Tanzania is the Rufiji River and its chain of lakes. This is the only major Tanzanian park where you can do a proper boat safari — drifting within metres of hippo pods and enormous crocodiles, with elephant coming down the banks to drink and skimmers working the shallows.
Because the area spent decades as a hunting reserve rather than a photographic park, walking safaris are permitted far more widely than in the north, and fly-camping — walking out and sleeping under canvas on a sandbank — is genuinely available. For travellers who feel they've done enough game drives, this is the antidote.
The park is also the most accessible of the southern circuit: a 45-minute flight from Dar es Salaam, which makes it easy to combine with Zanzibar. Wild dog are present in good numbers, and the lake circuit in September produces some of the most reliable predator viewing in southern Tanzania.
Nyerere offers a wider range of ways to experience it than any other Tanzanian park.
Two or three hours on the river among hippo, crocodile and waterbirds, with elephant on the banks. The reason most people choose Nyerere over Ruaha.
Five lakes linked by channels, drawing game as the dry season deepens. The most productive driving in the park, and superb for waterbirds throughout.
Decades as a hunting reserve mean walking is permitted far more widely here than in the north. Armed ranger, three hours, and complete quiet.
Walk out, sleep on a Rufiji sandbank under mosquito net and stars, walk back. One of very few places in Tanzania where this is still done properly.
Hippo and crocodile in numbers, a real wild dog population, and elephant recovering strongly from the poaching years.
Nyerere lost a devastating proportion of its elephants to poaching between 2009 and 2014, and the population is still rebuilding. Numbers today are far healthier and anti-poaching has improved markedly, but you'll see fewer elephant than in Ruaha or Tarangire. Set expectations accordingly — the boat, the walking and the wild dog are the reasons to come.
The widest activity range of any Tanzanian park — and the only one where a boat is a real option.
The activity that defines the park. Hippo pods at eye level, crocodiles sliding off sandbanks, and elephant crossing the channels at dusk.
Driving the chain of lakes as the water drops and game concentrates. The most productive predator viewing in the park, particularly late in the season.
With an armed ranger through miombo and riverine bush. Tracking, plant lore and the specific alertness that comes from being on foot.
Walk out with a light camp, sleep on a sandbank under nets and stars, walk back at dawn. Genuinely rare, and unforgettable.
Nyerere holds one of Africa's most significant wild dog populations. Denning season concentrates packs and gives the best odds of the year.
Natural hot springs near Lake Tagalala and the dramatic Stiegler's Gorge, where the Rufiji narrows through a hundred-metre chasm.
Nyerere is low, hot and humid. The dry months are excellent and the wet months are genuinely difficult.
The best camps sit directly on the Rufiji or on the lake chain, with boats launching from the doorstep.
Permanent lodges on the Rufiji with pools, decks over the water and boats moored below. Hippo grunting through the night is part of the package.
Canvas on the lake chain, small guest numbers and excellent walking guides. The best balance of comfort, access and atmosphere in the park.
Simpler camps near Mtemere gate, reachable by road from Dar. Considerably cheaper and still on the river, with boats available.
The easiest southern park to reach, and the most natural pairing with Zanzibar.
Tanzania's two great southern parks by light aircraft, with boat safaris on the Rufiji and walking in Ruaha.
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Three nights on the Rufiji with daily boat safaris, a walking safari and the lake circuit. Easy from Dar or Zanzibar.
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Ruaha and Nyerere followed by four nights on the Indian Ocean. The quiet alternative to the northern circuit.
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Walking between light camps on the Rufiji sandbanks. Minimal vehicles, maximum wilderness, for the genuinely adventurous.
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Nyerere pairs easily with Zanzibar and is only 45 minutes from Dar. Tell us your dates and we'll build the routing. No cost, no commitment.
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